Eat Good Food

California Oyster Varieties

There’s more diversity to your average oyster than might be guessed. For example, there are 150 oyster varieties in North America alone. Eighty of the oyster varieties are in California. All of them spring from just five basic oyster families.

That’s a lot of briny goodness.

Understandably daunted, we restrain ourselves here to discussing just California oyster varieties. They’re numerous enough to warrant their own appellations, just like wine.

Sweet, salty, mild, powerful, aphrodisiacal, and assuredly delicious — our local oysters are as good as it gets. (Unless you’re from another oyster-growing area. Now, now — no fisticuffs!)

California oysters are confined to our colder northern waters, flourishing in Humboldt and Marin counties. It’s curiously difficult to find a good place to farm oysters and fertile beds are rare, making the resulting meat even sweeter.

Amethyst
Found along the Humboldt County coast, these sweet small oysters are marked by the deeply cupped shells that form during tide-tumbled cultivation. The taste is creamy with a light minerality.

Hog Island
• Virginica
Available September to July, the Virginica oyster is noted for its crisp and mineral flavors.
• Sweetwater
This popular varietal is marked by its symmetrically fluted shells, sweet meat, and mild salt effect.
• Kumamoto
These have nearly buttery meat in deep cups and are a true area favorite.

Tomales Bay Oysters
Up to four inches long, these meaty oysters are great on the grill as they can stand up to heat and sauce.

Humboldt Gold
Like wine grapes, oysters take on unique flavor profiles when stressed, as with this beach-cultured variety. Buttery, sweet, and briny!

We are indebted to the good folks at Chef’s Resources.

Want more? Us, too! Let’s enjoy this glorious opening paragraph from Summer Brennan’s 2015 book, The Oyster War, excerpted in Scientific American:

The oyster pirates preferred to ambush the beds by moonlight. Working mostly in pairs, with two men per vessel, they mustered together in ramshackle armadas of thirty or forty small boats. They waited until cloudless nights when the full moon shone brightly on the piles of pale shells on shore, before advancing on the oyster companies’ camps en masse, their pistols at the ready. They went by nicknames, like the Porpoise, the Centipede, the Spider or the Shark. One particularly vicious character, known for trying to tear off the faces of his opponents in hand-to-hand combat, was known simply as “Scratch.” Their ranks included petty thieves and notorious murderers, fishermen gone crooked and adventuring youths; and, in 1897, among their number was a twenty-year-old undercover Fish Patrol agent by the name of John Griffith Chaney, better known to you and me as Jack London.

Eat Good Food

How to Shuck an Oyster

shuck oyster

Sweet and briny, oysters served at home make any meal more special. But first you need to learn how to shuck an oyster.

To begin, you’ll need an oyster knife – a sturdy blade with a good point for plenty of leverage at the hinge. A leather hand protector is also a good idea.

Just before shucking, simply rinse the oysters in cold water to rid them of surface mud. Fill a bowl with ice water to keep oysters cool and gather another bowl for the spent shells.

Fill a platter for serving with coarse salt or crushed ice to help stabilize the oysters.

Set the oyster cup side down (obvious in all but the flattest of flat oysters) and locate the spot where the shells are hinged. Hold the oyster firmly in place with a gloved hand, towel, or leather protector so that only the hinge is exposed, placing your non-dominant hand on top to hold it steady. Probe at the joint with your knife, wiggling the knife side to side as well as up and down, until you hear the hinge pop.

With the blade inside, but the shell still sealed, scrape between the top of the shell and the oyster to cut the upper abductor muscle.

Once the oyster shell has popped, twist the knife so that the broad flat of the blade pries the shells apart.

Lift the top shell and look closely for any shell fragments inside the shell, especially near the hinge, using the tip of the clean oyster knife to remove them. Take care not to tip the oyster and lose the liquor around it.

Finally, slide your knife under the oyster meat, close against the cupped side of the shell, and free the oyster from the bottom shell.

Set oysters on prepared platter and serve with a squeeze of lemon, or this classic mignonette.

Classic Mignonette
This recipe makes enough mignonette for a dozen oysters.

¼ cup red wine vinegar
1 tablespoon minced shallot
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
12 large oysters, freshly shucked

Stir vinegar, shallot, and pepper in a small bowl. Drizzle over oysters.

Join us every Saturday and Sunday on the front patio of SHED for oysters shucked to order. Learn more with our post California Oyster Varieties.