Sipping the rose-pink iced strawberry and tarragon shrub at the Fermentation Bar at SHED in Healdsburg, California, I wonder what America’s pioneer farmers would have made of this modern interpretation of their thirst-quenching soft drink. The seltzer bubbles prickle my mouth, releasing pleasantly vinegary strawberry notes with a peppery hint of tarragon. It tastes of summer without the sweet sickliness of a soda pop.
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